Are Daegu girls prettier? Fearless blogger seeks to find the answer

Author's note: A version of this article appeared in February 2010's issue of the Groove Magazine.

A friend recently asked me if I had heard about how Daegu women were the “prettiest”. No, I hadn't, I replied - but it might be an interesting topic worth studying, I thought. My trusty Moon guidebook on South Korea mentions the topic - hardly the only voice to pay attention to, but certainly a point in the theory's favor. Needless to say, it was worth finding out for myself. Off I went using Korea's excellent express bus system - albeit with an expectation that every Dae-gurl was somehow a supermodel just waiting to be discovered.

There's little doubt in my mind that vanity is part of the Korean genome. At any given time or place, the locals are checking their hair or makeup in almost any reflective surface available, whether silver mirror or cell phone. Most were trying to look cute, and few seemed unstylish - it's almost as if the fashion police were lurking and no one wanted to be that girl hauled away. Whether drinking coffee on the subway or a beer at a trendy club, being attractive seems almost as patriotic as singing the Korean national anthem.

Most Dae-gurls didn’t seem as obsessed with following every little trend. That some wore more makeup than Cher made you wonder what was really underneath all those layers of foundation, blush, powder, concealer, and lipstick. You’ll see the same overdone sort of look in Seoul, of course - girls, if you draw your eyes on with eyeliner, guys can tell.

While most Daegu women are pretty, they are also as demure as their counterparts around the country. They are still Korean first and foremost; to this foreign observer, tradition continues to outweigh beauty. That they are considered ‘elusive’ only adds to their allure. You’re unlikely to hear a Dae-gurl (or any other Korean girl for that matter) come out and proclaim how great they look to anyone.

It's also true that Daegu is becoming a medical tourism destination, and that many locals have taken advantage of the plastic surgeons around the area. Want proof? The underground shopping area around Daegu's Jungangno subway station holds several photo studios - most showing photos of locals having had the double eyelid surgery (that's blepharoplasty to you Pre-Med majors).

The pressure to be beautiful is definitely present in Daegu, just like everywhere else in ultra-competitive Korea. Being beautiful, smart - and to a certain extent, even tall - is seen as the way to succeed in finding a job, a significant other, and so on. Are Daegu girls the prettiest in Korea? In the eyes of this writer, they're as pretty as they are in most other places around Korea. Too often, beauty in Korea is limited to the surface – if too much emphasis is placed on one’s appearance, there’s less focus offered to what a person really is. Beauty fades – just look at most ajumma you meet – and is far from the only thing worth looking at.

© Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

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Destination: Hwaam Cave (Jeongseong, Gangwon-do)

Author's note: A version of this article appeared in February 2010's Groove Magazine.

To say Hwaam Cave (화암동굴) is out of the way is an understatement. While few natural subterranean structures are located near subway stations or major bus terminals, this one seemed seriously out of the way. Once we arrived and got to appreciate the area, however, the trip was well worth the time.

Buy an admission ticket, then decide whether you want to ride the monorail to the entrance of the cave (2,000 won) or walk 700 meters uphill:



If you're feeling a little worn out from your bus ride to the cave, take the monorail and get to the good part - the hike is uphill and not especially interesting.

Not pictured is a sign just outside the entrance warns you to use the bathroom nearby - the last one for 1,803 meters or an hour and a half. Apparently, nature doesn't provide any while in the cave, and no indoor plumbing exists once inside.



Once inside the cave, you'll find several sections to walk through. The first one, about the cave's history, uses several animatronic displays show people working in the caves. Hwaam Cave used to be a gold mine that was commercially operated from 1922 to 1945. It was the nation's fifth-largest goldmine at one point; after stalactites were discovered, it eventually became a tourist destination. Quite a few original tools and equipment are set up, along with an old-school rock drill you can try out – a great photo opportunity.



No matter where you go in Korea, you'll always have a cell phone that works - even in a cave in the middle of nowhere.



Some gold veins are still visible, and can be seen with the help of magnifying glasses. While no one will be scraping gold flecks out from behind the protective glass, it is a little surprising that there's still visible gold left.

The next section will simply be known as 'The Stairs':



Down for now...



To clarify the perspective, you’re looking almost straight up. There are two staircases at the top, both leading down and to the left, then going off-picture and reappearing in the lower-left-hand corner. Keep your eyes for formations that look like fire, dinosaurs, and turtles.



Down a longer set of stairs - some odd barriers are designed to keep you from falling down the entire 200 meter or so run. The views from these stairs are spacious, but not especially striking.

The next section is geared towards any younger travelers with you:





Because every cave has tiny little goblins mining for gold, right? Some fantasy cartoon characters more suited for a younger audience are shown 'digging' and 'mining'.



The next section features more about gold - and one exhibit shows quite a bit of the stuff (this can't be real... can it?)



This is certainly real - a golden chair dating back to circa 1361 B.C. Egypt. Gorgeous.

The final section - and the highlight of the cave - the caves' stalactites and stalagmites, wisely displayed with just enough light to enjoy them without losing your night vision. At 2,800 square meters large, it's a chance to see many different characteristics within one relatively small area, preserved and mostly kept far enough away from curious hands.



The green flame in the middle is actually a fountain that sports a light shifting through the color spectrum. Elsewhere, the stairs are adequately lit with lights that smartly point down to help you keep your night vision.



Many of these stalactites and stalagmites are still growing - the supposed rate of growth being 1 centimeter per 100 years, or about 4 inches per millennium.



Anyone else see a mouth in this picture?

A photo gallery built within the larger cave, but with a fake wall to make this room feel smaller.

Although few explanations are in English, the size and beauty of Hwaam Cave will make you forget to look. Take at least an hour and a half to enjoy the sights; two hours if you have kids with you or are taking lots of pictures.

Directions to Hwaam Cave: Take a bus to Jeongseon - from Seoul's Gangbyeon bus terminal (Gangbyeon subway station, line 2), 9 buses make the 3 1/2 hour trip every day. Once in Jeongseon, a local non-numbered bus travels from the terminal and stops in front of Hwaam Cave (look back at the first picture for the entrance to expect). That bus ride should take about 25-30 minutes and take you down a windy mountain road before arriving. Admission is 5,000 won, while the monorail costs another 2,000 won.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):

Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:


© Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

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A modest proposal for visa reform

If there's anything that Kang Shin Who's recent pieces have demonstrated, it's that the market forces of supply and demand trumps the law, whether well-intentioned or not. Whether illegal or not, there are more than enough bootleg DVD sellers to satisfy one's need for the latest movie. Whether illegal or not, people will seek out any edge they can to be better than the competition. The same goes for English lessons - whether illegal or not, people will seek out that edge.

But the whole question of 'illegal' English teaching reminds me of a dark time in my own nation's history. A time when teaching blacks to read was punishable by a mobs wrath. A time when women were expected to do the housework - she didn't need to go to school, she needed to stay at home and make dinner!

The question, as I'd like to ask it, is this: why is teaching English illegal? For E-2 visa holders, teaching private lessons (or anywhere other than your sponsoring school) is illegal and theoretically punishable by a fine. Why has the act of teaching been made illegal? It's the very same reason tens of thousand of foreigners come to Korea - the same reason we choose to move halfway across the world.

Perhaps foreigners are guilty of the same thing many Koreans are: seeking out that edge to make our lives better. Is that truly a reason worth punishing them? As an E-2 visa holder, your first and foremost responsibility is to the school that's hired you, flown you halfway around the world, and is providing you a place to live. At the same time, it is one's constitutional right to "pursue happiness" (Article 10); it is also one's "right" and "duty" to work (Article 32).

My modest proposal is this: A citizen living in Korea on an E-2 visa shall have the right to work any job(s) they desire and are able to get, so long as:

• They are capable and / or qualified to do the job(s), according to their employer(s) and relevant government agencies.
• They are able to keep up their work performance at the work that brought them into Korea.
  
• The other job(s) do not interfere with or compete with the work that brought them into Korea.
• The other job(s) are not done while 'on the clock' of the work that brought them into Korea.
• The other job(s) are not illegal according to the Korean government.

No notice necessarily needs to be given to your 'first' employer, but one might be given as a professional courtesy.

This idea simply asks for the same freedoms other people have: the ability to work when and where one is able to find it - no 'permission slip' or restrictions needed. How is that wrong?


© Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

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2S2 gathering - this Saturday - open invitation to anyone in Korea

If the term '2S2' is unfamiliar, it's a get-together of expats and Koreans every 2nd Saturday at 2pm started by Rob from Roboseyo. Unlike most other 'get-together' type groups, this one starts at the same place (A Twosome Place near Anguk station - line 3, exit 1), but does something different every time. This time, Rob has given my girlfriend and I the keys to the event for this month - this Saturday, it's on.

We'll get started around 11:45am - I'll meet people at the top of Sinsa station, line 3, exit 8. From there we'll walk down to the dancing place. If you want to get there on your own, the directions are below.

So what are we doing? The plan is to get together around noon for an absolute beginners swing dance lesson, taught by two English-speaking teachers with years of experience. If you've never tried swing dancing before, this will be the class to take - it assumes no previous dance experience or knowledge. Bring your boyfriend, your girlfriend, or someone you like - coming by yourself is fine as well.

From there, we'll head up to the Twosome Place, hang out for a cup of coffee / tea / sa-ee-deo, and socialize with all the cool people.

Before long, we'll head out to an ice carving place, where we'll go through an ice gallery / museum, then try our own hands at carving something out of ice ourselves.

After some dinner, we'll be off to move our feet at the same place we had our lesson - since we'll get there early we'll have the floor to learn a few more moves. Depending on how the night goes we might end with a nightcap, but we'll play that by ear.

Come on out! If you have any questions, e-mail me at chrisinsouthkorea AT gmail DOT com :)

Directions to the Swing Bar:

Take line 3 of the Seoul subway system to the Sinsa station. Take exit 8 to street level, then walk straight to the J Tower - about 200 meters ahead. Take the first left after J Tower, then the 1st right to walk along a side street. Look for 'The Swing' sign and a restaurant with an outdoor awning - take the stairs down just before the awning. The basement is 'The Swing'.

© Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

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On life in Korea and being a nomad teacher

"The time has come," the Walrus said,
"To talk of many things:
Of shoes--and ships--and sealing-wax--
Of cabbages--and kings--
And why the sea is boiling hot--
And whether pigs have wings."

Source: "The Walrus and the Carpenter", by Lewis Carroll (text retrieved from http://www.jabberwocky.com/carroll/walrus.html).

Define nomad: a member of a people who have no permanent home; a person who moves seasonally in search of resources; a wanderer.

Being an English teacher in South Korea is far from a 'stable' or 'normal' lifestyle. Much like the life of an ambassador or an embassy worker, one never quite knows what to expect at any given time. With little or no forewarning you may find yourself in the same part of town as a protest against the Korean government, a festival you knew nothing about, or be reminded everyday that you are not a local. As a result, a teachers life is inherently unstable - not necessarily a life lived dangerously, but not one you should not expect stability from.

Don't get me wrong - with some effort, we can create stability, put down roots, and avoid the nomad distinction. It helps if you are looking to call Korea home for some years to come, or have a Korean spouse with the accompanying family. Put the key money down and get into an apartment of your own choosing instead of the one given you by your school. Get involved in the community beyond English teachers - I'm continually amazed at the size and breadth of the communities available to longer-term foreigners.

If you're just arriving in Korea, a year may sound like a long time at one apartment or one job - but your time at a given school doesn't always last the whole year. Hagwons close or go out of business, new principals turn decent schools into nightmares, and so on. If crap hits the fan, going nomad allows you to get out without feeling forced into any given arrangement. While in your home country you have the benefit of friends, family, and a language you're far more familiar with - here in Korea you have only the first.

This is not meant to be a condemnation of Korea. While the government has its faults (like every other government in the world), it has more to do with the practices of local businesses, along with the lack of recourses available to waygukin like us. The point is to be aware, be mobile, and be cognitive; if that sounds like too much thought or effort, reconsider your life as an expat.

The reward of this thought - and forethought - can be a life of continuous growth. If followed, you're unlikely to find yourself 'stuck' or without any idea of what to do next.

So how to enjoy life in Korea, while accepting the reality that you're a nomad?

• Be ready to move, at any time, with little or no notice. This sounds harsh, but this prevents you from feeling too 'attached' to the status quo. How many pairs of shoes do you need anyway? This does not mean living out of boxes - rather, consider what you really need in life. The jobs that provide furnished apartments make having to haul around a mattress and desk not required. If you're that attached to your furniture, hiring a moving van isn't incredibly difficult.
• Gradually work towards giving away or selling unneeded things. The material things in life are wonderful, but really, how many sweaters or jackets do you need? The 'one-year rule' comes into effect here, and just not just with clothing. Don't forget about books, electronic stuff, furniture, dishes, and decorations. The local craigslist is an excellent place to sell stuff.
  
• Always be improving - whether it's your network of people, your relationships, or your skills, never be in a place where you're not growing. Don't settle on just knowing your friends at your favorite bar - get out and expand your social horizons.
• Keep some 'oh crap' money saved up - a smart idea no matter where you are in life.
• Appreciate the little things - with fewer material things getting in the way, seeing them should be easier.
  
• Consider the rewards of your effort - later on in life, you'll have a repertoire of experiences, friends, and cultures unlike almost anyone else around you.

© Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

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